The Perfect Pantry

Cumin (Recipe: mushroom bhaji/mushrooms in tomato-onion sauce)

Never let it be said that The Perfect Pantry avoids the big issues.

After all, we've taken a stand on Miracle Whip versus mayonnaise, chocolate versus vanilla, chili with beans versus chili without beans, and Fresca versus... well, versus everything.

Today we're tackling another of life's big questions: how to pronounce cumin.

COO-min? COO-men? KEW-min?

Is there one correct way that makes all of the others incorrect?

Turmeric (Recipe: saag aloo/potatoes with spiced spinach)

In days of old, when nights were cold, I used to spend a lot of time knitting.

Yarn shopping replaced clothes shopping as my favorite activity. I bought yarn wherever I found something out of the ordinary -- at a stall in Covent Garden, at a craft fair in New Zealand with Cousin Martin, at hidden-away sales of Uruguayan yarn in Manhattan --and eventually I took up spinning and dyeing my own yarn.

And that's why, long before I ever used turmeric in my cooking, I had some in my pantry. In the world of natural dyeing, turmeric turns everything it touches a golden yellow color; in cooking, it does the same thing.

Chinese five-spice powder (Recipe: five-spice applesauce)

A favorite post from 2007, updated with a new recipe, photos and links.

Can you name:

The five W's? (who, what, where, when, why)

The five senses? (sight, hearing, touch, smell, taste)

The five elements? (wood, fire, earth, metal, and water)

The five flavors? (sour, bitter, sweet, pungent, salty)

The five spices in Chinese five-spice powder?

Er....uh.....um....

Stumped?

Zahtar, a Pantry Special (Recipe: fattoush, a salad of pita bread, tomato and cucumber)

Pantry Specials are great ingredients that find their way into my pantry from time to time, but not all the time. In this occasional series of short posts, you'll find information and recipes for foods that might not be on your local supermarket's shelves, but are available online.

Zahtar, zatar, za'atar: what's in a name? Though the word means thyme in Arabic, the name also refers to a blend of sumac, sesame seeds, salt and dried green herbs (thyme, usually, but sometimes oregano, marjoram or parsley). Zahtar, a popular table condiment in the Middle East, is sprinkled on or cooked with meat and vegetable dishes. Most often it's ground in a mortar and pestle, so the texture remains a bit coarse. For a perfect snack, mix zahtar with a bit of olive oil, and smear it on pita bread or pizza. And don't worry: sumac, the dominant ingredient in zahtar, is not the poison sumac we're taught to avoid in the woods. This sumac, from the dark-red berries of a shrubby tree native to the Middle East and parts of Italy, has a tart, fruity, lemony flavor.

Vadouvan, a Pantry Special (Recipe: butternut squash, apple and vadouvan soup)

Pantry Specials are great ingredients that find their way into my pantry from time to time, but not all the time. In this occasional series of short posts, you'll find information and recipes for foods that might not be on your local supermarket's shelves, but are available online.

Before last season's Top Chef, I'd never heard of vadouvan, so when I saw a small sample packet at the The Spice House in Chicago last summer, I couldn't pass it up. Basically, it's a French version of a South Indian curry powder (which can be a blend of up to 30 spices), and just as curry powders vary from one cook to the next, so does vadouvan. Sometimes it's more of a paste, made with cooked onions, that needs to be stored in the refrigerator. The packet I bought, which is a dry spice mix, contains curry, curry leaves, white and toasted onion and garlic powders, brown mustard seeds, shallots and kosher salt. Some blends also include fenugreek and cardamom. Use it as you would a sweet curry powder; the flavor is milder and a bit more fruity, with just a hint of smoke.

Thyme (Recipe: herbed cheese spread)

New England, famous for its exuberant display of Fall foliage, seldom disappoints us.

Here in the southern part of the region, the leaves are just beginning to turn, mostly to yellow, but I see an occasional bright red or orange sugar maple along the roads from my house to anywhere. Right outside the window nearest to my desk, the dogwood's leaves have a bit of a purplish tinge today.

My garden senses the change of season, too. The tomato plant should win an award for tenacity, as it continues to produce lovely little green tomatoes that hang on the vine just long enough, it seems, for the deer, or rabbits, or woodchuck to discover them.

In the herb beds, some plants linger while others have begun to fade away. Parsley: gone to seed. Sage: still lively, waiting to be called upon for Thanksgiving turkey stuffing. Rosemary: surprisingly vibrant, though not much left.

And thyme. There's always thyme, hanging on well into winter, when I dig down through the snow to grab a few sprigs for my cooking.

Curry powder (Recipe: curried green tomatoes)

It's green tomato season here in Rhode Island -- the perfect time to enjoy an updated post from the archives. And if you live in my neighborhood, please help yourself to these green tomatoes from my garden.

On my very first spice rack, in my very first apartment, the most exotic tin, rectangular and red and gold all over, held Madras curry powder.

You know exactly what I'm talking about.

You probably have a tin just like it on your spice rack.

Though I'm 25 or 30 tins down the road from my first spice rack, the tin in my pantry today is exactly the same as the first one: Sun Brand Madras Curry Powder, imprinted with seals of approval so tiny you can't possibly read them, from organizations (or expositions, or governments) you need a microscope to identify. A silver medal from St. Louis 1904 must be from the World's Fair, but whoever bestowed a gold medal from London 1905, the most recent prize listed on the tin, remains a mystery.

However, what's not a mystery is why this particular spice blend is sold in supermarkets everywhere.

Curry powder is the ultimate convenience food.

Cinnamon (Recipe: chocolate chip banana bars)

The final guest post by one of the food bloggers I've adopted through the Adopt-a-Blogger mentoring program. (Please be sure to visit their terrific blogs.) Today, meet Maris of In Good Taste, the third blog I adopted. An account executive with a large public relations firm, Maris writes about healthy cooking -- with some indulgences -- for worknights, date nights, and the rare at-home nights of a busy twenty-something woman in New York City.

Guest post and photos by Maris of In Good Taste.

When Lydia adopted my blog last year, I immediately learned that we had a lot in common. Of course we share a love for cooking and writing. Beyond that, we both grew up in the New York/New Jersey area, we're both avid fans of Top Chef, and we both like to travel.

There is, however, one undeniable difference between Lydia and me.

I am a self-proclaimed dessert fanatic, and she doesn’t have a big sweet tooth.

I would turn my oven on in hundred-degree heat if it meant chocolate fudge brownies, while Lydia prefers cooking to baking any day of the week.

When the mood to bake strikes me, chocolate chip cookies, yeast breads and quick breads tend to call my name. I like to follow rough formulas –- this much flour to that much baking soda, this many eggs to that much sugar. Once I have the foundation for a recipe in mind, I tinker with it and make it my own, by adding nuts or fruits, or some of my new Vietnamese cinnamon.

Mahlab (Recipe: Armenian brioche filled with dates, honey and walnuts)

Today, another guest post by one of the food bloggers I've adopted through the Adopt-a-Blogger mentoring program. (Please be sure to visit their terrific blogs.) Today, meet Sandie of Inn Cuisine, the second blog I adopted. Sandie, a writer based in Kansas City, specializes in recipes from bed and breakfasts, country and urban inns, as well as cooking with local, sustainable foods. Her blog is full of recipes you'll love to have in your repertoire when entertaining family, friends and guests at home.

Guest post and photos by Sandie of Inn Cuisine.

As an avid reader of The Perfect Pantry, I have learned much from Lydia’s work: from interesting facts about ingredients I thought I knew, to discovering products and spices completely foreign to me. That’s why, when Lydia asked if I would write a guest post, my mind raced. What pantry ingredient could I feature? What recipe could I share?

In Perfect Pantry style, I decided to push myself, learn about and cook with a pantry item I had not previously heard of or experienced: mahlab.

Cardamom (Recipe: Finnish pulla bread)

Ten things I know about cardamom (you'll be glad to know them, too):