Allspice, in rhubarb-apricot chutney

Next time I reorganize my spice rack, I'm abandoning my usual system.

Next time, I will not group the little jars into peppers, salts, baking spices, warm spices and leafy green herbs.

Next time, I'll sort my dried herbs and spices this way:

1. aphrodisiacs
2. miracle cures
3. brings prosperity and good fortune
4. used for embalming pharoahs in ancient Egypt

That covers just about everything on my spice rack, including allspice (a triple whammy: numbers 2, 3 and 4).

The dried berry of a myrtle tree native to the West Indies and Central America, allspice was discovered by Christopher Columbus, who, thinking it was pepper, named it pimienta. Subsequently it became known as Jamaican pepper, because most of the best quality crop grew there; the English gave it the name "allspice", because it mimics the aroma of several spices, including cloves, pepper, cinnamon and nutmeg.

According to Herbs & Spices by Jill Norman, "allspice is the only important spice that still comes almost exclusively from its region of origin — which also makes it the only one grown almost exclusively in the New World." Today the majority of the world allspice harvest goes to the food industry, for use in commercial ketchups and other sauces.

One of the so-called warm spices, allspice is the star component of Jamaican jerk seasoning, and often features in ras-el hanout, Syrian spice and the American inventions apple pie and pumpkin spices.

Whole allspice berries should be a dark reddish brown, and rounded, with a rough surface and no musty smell. Ground allspice should be a rich, dark brown with a warm aroma. I always have ground allspice in the pantry, and occasionally there are some whole allspice berries, too, which I use to mix up a pickling spice.

If you prefer to grind your own, five whole berries equal one teaspoon of ground allspice; if you have to substitute, try equal parts cinnamon, ground cloves and nutmeg.

Properly stored in a cool, dry place, allspice will keep for more than a year (whole allspice berries will keep longer, up to three years). Good thing, too, because you'll use it over and over, in muffins, fish in escabeche, grilled pork chops, potato dumplings, arugula pesto, and of course jerk chicken.

And if it brings you a bit of prosperity and good fortune... well, there's nothing wrong with that.

RHUBARB-APRICOT CHUTNEY
I love chutney -- it's sweet and tart and a little bit spicy, and is a great way to add fruit to savory dishes. A perfect accompaniment to roast chicken, grilled fish or pork, this recipe is adapted from Magic Spices: 200 healthy recipes featuring 30 common spices, by Donna L. Weihofen. Makes approximately one quart.

2 cups diced rhubarb
2 cups dried apricot halves, diced
1 small red onion, minced
1 cup honey
1 cup golden raisins
2 cups cider vinegar
2 Tbsp fresh lemon juice
1 Tbsp lemon zest
1 Tbsp minced fresh ginger
1/2 tsp ground cloves
1 tsp allspice
1 tsp cinnamon
1/4 tsp cayenne pepper

In a heavy saucepan, combine all ingredients. Bring to a boil, reduce heat, cover, and simmer 20-30 minutes, stirring occasionally. Serve warm or cold. Store in a glass jar in the refrigerator (if using a canning jar, replace the metal lid with a plastic one, so the acid in the chutney won't corrode the lid).

Also in The Perfect Pantry:
Shish taouk (garlic chicken on skewers)
Cocoa-cumin-allspice rub
Countertop dill pickles
Pumpkin pie
Tomato-nectarine chutney

 

Comments

[MyKitchenInHalfCups]

Maybe I'll try a little with my coffee in the morning if it will bring a bit of bit of prosperity and good fortune that would be great.
As always Lydia, very interesting.

[Meeta]

Oh yes that organisational system sounds good to me. Allspice is a wonderful spice however I often use it only during the Christmas time. This chutney sounds delicious, especially after the fact that I made an apricot salsa this weekend. Your chutney is next on my list!

[Lucia]

Which spices are aphrodisiacs? I must know!! No one ever tells me anything!!
That chutney sounds wonderful.

[Kathy]

Allspice isn't my favorite but has a place on my pantry shelf anyway. The chutney sounds good.

[rupert]

How many of us thought at one time that allspice was all the spices thrown in together?

[Ann]

Mmmmm... how I love chutney! And allspice is obviously under-used!

[Susan from Food Blogga]

What's not to love about chutney, especially this one? Rhubarb has arrived with a flourish at our markets and I can't get enough! I will be trying this one, Lydia, thanks!

[Mike]

I love allspice and your spice organization system. ;-) The chutney sounds like a very curious and interesting flavor, but maybe that's my awakening to the wonder that is rhubarb talking.

[T.W. Barritt at Culinary Types]

Well, I'm going to stock up on allspice, and maybe you could do one of your famous "Week of ..." features on aphrodisiacs in the pantry?

[George]

Ooh that chutney sounds so good. I love your idea for spice organisation, mine are all in alphabetical groups - it works for me but isn't all that exciting :)

[Sabina]

I love you organizational thinking and the chutney looks wonderful!!

[Rebecca]

Hmmm-do I want it to bring prosperity, or shall I use it as an aphrodisiac? Oh-I don't have to choose! Mwahaha (evil laugh)Oh-and Rupert-I was one of those!;)

[Amy]

I recently picked up some ground allspice from my favorite spice store. Can't wait to make some jerk chicken. :)

[jasmine]

Really like your proposed organisational scheme! Must remember it for mine own :)

j

[Susan G]

Wonders! You have saved me a search for a rhubarb chutney recipe -- my Saturday plans include going to pick all the rhubarb I want at a friends. Aphrodisiacs: before we were married, I gave my husband an aphrodisiac cookbook, in French. Never have cooked from it though. Another lovely thing to do with allspice berries: let them bob in mulled cider. Well, off to reorganize the spices!

[Lydia]

MyKitchen, I wish all readers prosperity and good fortune -- and aphrodisiacs for everyone!

Meeta, allspice really balances nicely with the sharpness of the rhubarb, and would work in other fruit dishes, too -- berry compotes, maybe?

Lucia, see TW's comment: I'll make a list....

Kathy, do give it a try. I think you'll like it.

Rupert, when I first heard the word "allspice", I thought, "How amazing -- all the spices in one!" Hmmmm.

Ann, I think allspice is underused, too -- at least in our culture. In Jamaica, of course, it is the king of spices.

Susan, even better, the rhubarb is abundant in the garden of my friend who lives up the road, and she has so kindly offered me as much as I need, for several batches of this chutney.

Mike, chutneys are a world of their own, one of the ultimate improvisational dishes. Once you begin to make them, you'll be turning every imaginable fruit (and quite a few veggies, too) into beautiful chutneys.

TW, your wish is my command! But a whole week? Maybe a post or two, although when I start putting a list together, I might find more little aphrodisiacs hiding in the cupboard....

George, I tried the alphabetical order once. But with so many people taking classes in my kitchen, the alphabet turned to chaos! Now I do group by salts, peppers, baking stuff, green stuff, Indian stuff, and odds and ends.

Sabina, thank you!

Rebecca, that's a tough choice...

Amy, jerk chicken, syrian chicken shish kabob, and pickles -- my three favorite things to do with allspice.

Jasmine, glad you like it -- I bet you'll never look at your spice rack again without thinking, just for a moment, about aphrodisiacs, prosperity and miracle cures.

Susan, what will you do with your chutney? I love it on chicken sandwiches and with some stronger-tasting fish, like tuna. And yes, mulled cider -- love it.

[neil]

I've never really used allspice much, but if it had some aphrodisiac qualities, well, I might have paid more attention! Do you think that if you didn't have a plastic lid instead of a metal one for the chutney, a piece of plastic wrap before the lid goes on might work?

[sher]

I didn't know any of that information about allspice. I use it a lot when I pickle things.

[peabody]

My mom is a rhubarb lover...I am passing this on to her.

[Patricia Scarpin]

I have never tried allspice, but have seen it in hundreds of recipes. Gotta try it soon, Lydia!

[Sandie (Inn Cuisine)]

Ok, I am so heading to the local farmers' market this weekend and buying rhubarb, this chutney sounds like a perfect addition to grilled ANYTHING (which we'll be having lots of this weekend.)

If only all my spices fit into the categories of 1,2 & 3. (4? Not so much...)

[mae]

Alphabetically allspice is first -- at least on my shelf, where it precedes almond extract and anise. I'm not imaginative to have another organization than that.

And thanks for the recipe: I love all kinds of chutney, favorites are mango (early summer) and plum (fall) -- good to have a spring seasonal one!

[Callipygia]

I really like your new spice organizing system, which would further expand the pantry I would think!

[Lydia]

Neil, I think a piece of heavy plastic wrap would work just fine as a barrier against the metal. You just want to avoid prolonged contact with the acid in the chutney.

Sher, I use allspice in my pickling mix, too.

Peabody, hope your mom likes it!

Patricia, I'm sure there are some wonderful Brazilian recipes that use allspice, too. I'll start looking for some.

Sandie, if you can't find it at the market, I have a neighbor.... (and I'll bet that all of your spices fit into 1, 2 or 3. Some day I'll do a post about that!)

Mae, I'm in awe of anyone who can maintain alphabetical order of their spices. My own spice rack is a bit chaotic, really. Plum chutney is one of my favorites, too.

Callipygia, you know I'm always trying to make my pantry more perfect!

[gattina]

I have a good chuckle when I see your grouping. I should use this spice more often, great recommendation!

[Lucia]

A pot of that divine chutney is simmering on my stove as I write. Oh, the aroma!!! Can't wait to try it tonight with pork.
Thanks!

[Aimee]

Lydia, I love my whole allspice and they are like little precious gems to me, sitting on my spice rack. I love adding some to gingersnaps! Mmm.

PS. I really want to send you my pantry submission. Maybe one day I'll get time to photograph it!

[Lydia]

Gattina, thanks!

Lucia, I'm pink with envy -- I love the aroma of chutney cooking in my kitchen.

Aimee, do you add the whole allspice berries, or do you crush them? I love gingersnaps -- maybe you'll share your recipe or link to a post if you've written about it? (and we'd love to see your pantry!)

[noobcook]

I've always wondered what allspice is. I thought it is a combi of many spices (so noobish) and today I learnt it's from a berry ;)

[Lydia]

Noobcook, you can see by the comments that you're not the only one who thought allspice was all spices! Lots of us thought that, too.

[mae]

I thought about this post just now as I was making chicken liver with onions, butter, pepper, grey sea salt (thanks, Lydia, I finally bought some), really good cognac, and ALLSPICE. After sauteing all this stuff, I creamed the liver with the immersion blender, so it's sort of pate-like: a descendant of a Julia Child recipe.

[Lydia]

Mae, that sounds like something Julia would have been proud of. Have fun with your grey salt; let me know what you're making with it.