Sake (Recipe: pesto soba)

Accidents happen.

Blue cheese, vinegar, wine, yogurt, fish sauce, yeast breads, sake.

If modern government-regulated food storage requirements of today had been in place hundreds of years ago, we'd have none of these products, because all are the result of storage mishaps.

Thank goodness for accidents, for food left out of refrigeration too long, left in a barrel for too many months, left out in the sun or in a dark cellar, or carried through the desert in hot saddle bags on a camel's back.

Sake (pronounced SAH KAY) most assuredly resulted from one of those fermentation accidents; somewhere in Japan, as early as the 3rd Century AD, some rice got wet and sat around, and turned into something drinkable. The process for making sake today is a bit more controlled. Fermented from rice and water, sometimes aided by the action of koji (a fungus enzyme) and yeast, sake is brewed (like beer), without carbonation (like wine) or distillation (like spirits). In Japan there are at least 65 varieties of rice that are used for making sake. Generally the final product contains 15-17 percent alcohol.

Sake is not aged beyond six months, and is made to be consumed soon after purchase. Stored in the refrigerator, or in a cool, dark part of your pantry, sake will last 6-12 months. Once opened, it really does need to be refrigerated. After 12 months, throw it away; it will not turn into something cool like sake vinegar.

There are various types of sake, and more than 800 breweries in Japan alone, so how do you choose a good one? Go to your local liquor store; you'll be able to find a drinkable American-made sake (the Gekkeikan company brews in California), that is quite affordable and perfect for cooking.

Sake adds sweetness to glazes and braises, sorbet, steamed fish, sangria ... and an unusual fusion risotto. Use sake plus a pinch of sugar as a substitute for mirin, too.

SPICY PESTO SOBA
The recipe calls for cooked chicken breasts. You can poach or roast chicken breasts, or even buy a rotisserie chicken from the market. And if you don't have soba, make this with any Asian noodles, or even with spaghetti. Adapted from Asian Noodles, by Nina Simonds. Serves 4.

1/2 lb snow peas, ends snapped, strings removed, sliced in half lengthwise
3/4 lb soba (buckwheat) noodles, cooked in boiling water until just tender, rinsed under cold water, drained

For the pesto:
1 hot red chile pepper, or 1 tsp crushed red pepper
6 cloves garlic
1 cup fresh basil leaves
1 cup fresh mint leaves
1 Tbsp toasted sesame oil

1 lb boneless, skinless chicken breasts, cooked and cut into thin strips
3/4 cup minced scallions

For the dressing:
1/2 cup plus 1 Tbsp soy sauce
6 Tbsp rice vinegar
4 Tbsp sugar
2 Tbsp sake 

Bring a pot of water to a boil. Add the snow peas and blanch for 10 seconds. Drain, run under cold water to stop the cooking, and drain again. Blot dry with paper towels.

In a blender, combine all ingredients for pesto, and process to a paste. Toss noodles and pesto together in a large bowl. Arrange noodles on a platter and arrange the snow peas, chicken and scallions on top,

In a smaller bowl whisk together dressing ingredients. Drizzle the dressing over the salad, or serve on the side.

[Printer-friendly recipe.]

More recipes in The Perfect Pantry:
Asparagus cashew stir fry
Spicy peanut noodles
Spicy meat noodles
Teriyaki tofu wraps

Comments

[tigerfish]

I made soba too! :D
I love soba so I may try them with pesto next time.

[Nora]

I didn't know that sake should be consumed within 12 moths. Thanks for all that interesting info. I prefer sake warm. I've even poached pear with sake and served it with green tea ice cream and red bean compote. yummmm....

[lobstersquad]

I´d never have thought to include the two words soba and pesto in a same sentence, you´re awsome. sounds great, too.

[veron]

Glad I read this, I need to refrigerate my sake then! I love using sake for cooking as an alternative to the chinese cooking wine.

[Susan from Food Blogga]

I'm a sake novice, so I really appreciate this post, Lydia. You know, it's funny, my dad is always saying how he and his siblings ate food that was left on the counter or not stored as it would be today and how "obsessed" we have become with food handling and storage. Things are so different now than they were 50 or 60 years ago, aren't they?

[Candy]

Ohhh, Lydia! This recipe sounds so good! I will make it soon. I have never had sake in my pantry, so a trip to "88" (local asian grocery store) is a must.

[Hillary]

I tried hot sake for the first time a couple weeks ago...it was interesting to say the least. I couldn't bear more than a tinnny sip at a time. And the smell, is a bit nauseating in my opinion. Worth the experience though!

[Katiez]

We used to drink sake with our "Japanese" meals back in the U.S. I rather liked it, but preferred it cool, rather than warm.
I loved it for cooking. Now I have to content myself with sherry...which I also like to drink....hmmmm, wonder what that all says about me...

[Kelly-Jane]

How lovely to think of this as a happy accident :)

[sandi @ the whistlestop cafe]

I didn't know that sake needed to be finished soon after opening... that would explain the 'sake vinegar' in my fridge.

You always teach me something new!

[Lydia]

Tigerfish, the seasonings with the soba are so good in this recipe. I hope you like it.

Nora, I didn't know that, either -- and when I checked the expiration date on the bottle of sake in my pantry, I tossed it out right away and bought a new one. Old, old sake -- and it does not improve with age.

Lobster, the combination of basil and mint in this "pesto" is really delicious.

Veron, I just learned this, too. Glad to share the info!

Susan, it's true that our food storage habits, especially in the US, are often a bit over-the-top. I've learned this in Europe, where cheese and often butter are stored at room temperature for far longer than we'd do it here. And many foods simply taste better when they are not ice cold.

Candy, take me with you -- I'm always up for a run to my favorite Asian market!

Hillary, the taste of warm sake doesn't appeal to me, either, but when used in cooking and the alcohol is cooked out, it leaves a sweetness that is truly wonderful.

Katie, it says that you are a woman who knows how to have fun in the kitchen!

Kelly-Jane, yes indeed, turns out that some of my favorite foods were happy accidents.

Sandi, thank you. I'm having such fun learning and sharing what I learn about the items in my pantry.

[valentinA]

THat's an interesting recipe Lydia. There's no doubt it's deliciously flavoured with the pesto soba!

[sher]

That looks like a wonderful recipe! I must try it.

[Karen]

This is an interesting recipe. But I have used sake in place of white wine in a pinch when cooking "Italian" style, so it makes sense how it would work here.

Also, I just read "The Zen of Sushi" which explains in fascinating detail all about the history of preserving rice and fish in Japan.

[Patricia Scarpin]

I have never had sake, Lydia - I'm kind of weak with alcohol but would love to try it!

[Rasa Malaysia]

I love sake, especially in my steamed clams with sake...OMG, soooo good. First had the dish in an izakaya in Tokyo, now I can't do without sake and the clams!

[Lydia]

Valentina, I love the combination of mint, basil and soba -- such a perfect balance.

Sher, you'll enjoy it, I know. Would this qualify for presto pasta?

Karen, I have that book on my to-read list but now will move it closer to the top.

Patricia, remember that when you cook with sake, as with all wine, the alcohol burns off, leaving behind the sweetness and flavor. I don't drink wine at all, but I do cook with it.

RM, steamed clams with sake sounds so incredibly good. Do you have a recipe you could share with us, or have you posted about this on your blog? If so, please share the link.

[ann]

what an unusual mixture of ingredients that I am simply dying to try! I adore mint "pestos" but never thought to put basil in there. it's kind of a head slapper ;-)
thanks as always for all your wonderful knowledge!

[Callipygia]

One of my most enjoyable times getting tipsy was taste testing sake in a sake brewery (is that the right word?) Yes! I am most intrigued by the pesto being drizzled by another sauce. Maybe like a hot fudge sundae having an extra adornment of pineapple sauce? Cool.

[Lydia]

Ann, somehow the mint really brings out the basil flavor a bit more, and I was surprised (and delighted) by that the first time I made this recipe.

Callipygia, a sake tasting must have been a lot of fun! Yes, this dish is rich in layers of flavor.

[Pauline]

RM, I'm looking forward to your "sake and clams" recipe. Sounds like a winning combination. P.S. the photography on your blog is "simply" beautiful!!!

[Mimi]

I'm a sake virgin, too! If I have had it, I am unaware of it.

[Kelly Mahoney]

My favorite products are mistakes then! Post-it notes, penicillin, silly putty and panty hose were mistakes, too. Then again, I don't like panty hose at all.

[Lydia]

Mimi, I'll bet you've had it, in Japanese dishes, and not known it.

Kelly, you're so right! I remember the stories about Post-its, penicillin, and Silly Putty, but I didn't know about panty hose. I definitely think they are a mistake, and to be honest, I can't remember the last time I wore a pair.

[Matt]

What kind of madman would put sake into a risotto ?? With wasabi no less ! Oh wait...

[Lydia]

Matt, thank heavens for madmen!