In a week that hosts both Canada Day and the Fourth of July, it might seem a bit surprising to celebrate something in my pantry that comes from halfway around the world.
I can't help myself. Look at these adorable red and white peppers in blue-and-white crocks! Just under two inches tall, they were a gift from Laverne -- the mother of one of the original Ninecooks -- who brought them home from her recent trip to Vietnam.
On the left, ground red (medium-hot) chile pepper. On the right, whole white peppercorns.
The two peppers are used differently, in different parts of the country. In the north, where the food is flavorful but not particularly spicy, the seasoning of choice is white or black pepper. White peppercorns are, just like black peppercorns, the berries of the pepper plant Piper nigrum; the difference is that the black are unripe berries, and the white are berries that have been allowed to ripen fully on the vine. The outer shell is removed by soaking the ripe berries under water until the shells fall off, revealing the white interior.
The hottest food comes from the central part of the country around Hue, the ancient imperial capital, where everyday food shows the influence of the royal cuisine, and fresh chiles are used liberally. Cayenne would be a good substitute for this ground red pepper.
My pantry holds a dozen or more varieties of chile peppers -- whole, ground, red, green, hot, mild -- and I use them somewhat interchangeably. Of course it's most fun, when I'm lucky enough to receive a gift of authentic spices, to make dishes from the same part of the world. Try beef wrapped in betel leaf or prawn fritters, both using white pepper from the north. And from central Vietnam, sample some Bun Bo Hue, the famous makes-your-head-sweat noodle soup.
BURMESE DRY CHICKEN CURRY (Kyetha See Byan)
Not from Vietnam but from a stop along the spice trail, this aromatic recipe for oven or grill can be made with bone-in or boneless chicken pieces, and makes a great picnic dish with a cabbage- or rice-based salad. Adapted from Sandeep Chatterjee's classic The Spice Trail: One Hundred Hot Dishes from India to Indonesia, the recipe serves 6.
4 Tbsp soy sauce
2 Tbsp minced garlic
3 Tbsp minced fresh ginger
2 Tbsp soft brown sugar
2 tsp ground white pepper
1 Tbsp ground coriander
1 Tbsp red chile powder, mild or hot to taste
2 lb chicken parts, bone-in, skin-on (or 2 lbs boneless, skinless chicken thighs)
Add all ingredients except the chicken to a large bowl, and whisk to combine. Add the chicken, stir to coat each piece, and marinate at room temperature for 3-4 hours (not longer!). Remove the chicken from the marinade and cook over medium heat on the grill, or under the broiler, turning occasionally, until done.
That recipe looks as if it would set my fireworks off!! Happy 4th of July!!!
Posted by: Pauline | July 03, 2007 at 01:16 PM
the smell of ginger and coriander will enhance the taste of the chicken plus the spike of the chilly powder.
"Comes with fragrant and yet luvly hot"
Posted by: Big Boys Oven | July 03, 2007 at 01:21 PM
I love neat little kitchen gadgets, especially beautiful items to store ingredients in!
Posted by: Ari (Baking and Books) | July 03, 2007 at 04:00 PM
Very pretty indeed!
Posted by: Nora B | July 03, 2007 at 05:41 PM
so lovely :) one can never have too many lovely containers :) this post reminds me i need to buy some proper peppercorns too :) i've gotten addicted to the freshly cracked stuff lol!
Posted by: The TriniGourmet | July 04, 2007 at 12:08 AM
I love that little porcelain containers. The recipe sounds very simple. I will try it out when it's sunny here that I can grill it in the garden. :)
Posted by: The Cooking Ninja | July 04, 2007 at 03:49 AM
Did you celebrate both Canada day and the 4th, since your family represents both? Hope it's been a been a great celebration!
Posted by: T.W. Barritt | July 04, 2007 at 07:04 AM
Pauline, thanks! We're off to the Ancients and Horribles parade in our town this afternoon.
Big Boys, welcome to The Perfect Pantry! Love your blog.
Ari, I'm a sucker for little ceramic pots and tiny wooden bowls.
Nora, thank you.
Trini, white pepper is something I don't use enough, so I was thrilled to receive this gift -- and in such a pretty container, too.
Ninja, it's a beautiful sunny July 4th here, so I'm going to make this chicken on the grill. Thanks for stopping by.
TW, you betcha! Maple syrup on everything!
Posted by: Lydia | July 04, 2007 at 09:50 AM
I love the containers, and you are right, this recipe would be great on a salad in the summer.
Posted by: Tartelette | July 04, 2007 at 03:59 PM
They are so pretty, I espcailly like the shape of the one on the left :)
Posted by: Kelly-Jane | July 04, 2007 at 04:29 PM
Too cute, too cute- just perfect for the pantry. Almost doesn't matter what is inside!
Posted by: Callipygia | July 04, 2007 at 05:22 PM
Tartelette, the chicken is so flavorful and a bit sweet; I'd try it with a cole slaw that's on the tart side. Great picnic food.
Kelly-Jane, I agree, but I'm trying not to play favorites.
Callipygia, I'm already thinking about what to put in them when the pepper is finished....
Posted by: Lydia | July 04, 2007 at 06:21 PM
I love collecting small containers and those are lovely. The recipe is terrific--love the different flavors!
Posted by: sher | July 05, 2007 at 03:58 AM
Oh my gosh Lydia, where have I been? Apparently I've been so busy with work and just barely trying to keep the Granny Cart afloat I've managed to miss a ton of your wonderful posts! *sob*
Well, I'm caught up now and feel I've learned much! I love Hue style pho. It's so intense and firey. Love. And I love Burmese food too, it's really underrated. I'm definitely going to tuck this recipe away for a rainy day! Thanks!
Posted by: ann | July 05, 2007 at 08:25 AM
I am not sure whether I'm more in love with the tiny containers or the recipe - I have had "dry curry" in my back-of-the-mind-to-cook list for ages, and you have presented me with a beautiful recipe. ow lucky you are to have someone to bear spices for you from afar, and how lucky I am to have someone to give me the perfect recipe right in the middle of grilling season.... Thanks for the pleasure of reading your blog!
Posted by: annie | July 05, 2007 at 08:33 AM
Sher, these little crocks will have a long life in my kitchen.
Ann, life has a way of intruding on our fun, doesn't it??? Glad you're back! Burmese food is so unknown here -- well, maybe not in NYC, but in RI for sure -- and yet the flavors are so wonderful. This is really not a "curry" as we usually think of an Indian or Thai curry, with a sauce. This dry curry is more like a grill rub. Enjoy!
Annie, welcome to The Perfect Pantry. I feel very fortunate to have friends who travel and think of me and bring treats for my kitchen. (Stay tuned for a future post about the hand-hammered wok a friend just brought from Shanghai!)
Posted by: Lydia | July 05, 2007 at 08:34 AM
Make Vietnamese Bun Bo Hue! The spiciest noodle soup - very super duper yum
Posted by: Steamy Kitchen | July 07, 2007 at 10:33 PM