Cocoa powder (Recipe: cocoa-cumin-allspice rub)

Sometimes I uncover an item in my pantry that's a bit of mystery. I know I should have it. In fact, I'm never without it. I just don't know why.

Cocoa powder is the mystery du jour.

What, exactly, is cocoa powder? What makes some of it Dutch-processed? Is natural cocoa powder better, or just different?

Here's what I've learned.

Unsweetened cocoa powder results from the pressing of chocolate liquor to remove most of the cocoa butter. The remaining cocoa solids are processed to make a fine powder. There are two types: natural, and Dutch-processed.

In 1778, the Dutch brought cacao from the Philippines to Sumatra, where they established a propagation facility that enabled major production in the region. In 1828, Conrad van Hooten, a Dutch chemist, patented a technique for pressing most of the fat from roasted and crushed cocoa beans, improving the digestibility of the resulting powder. The addition of alkaline salts neutralized the acids in the cocoa, making it more easily soluble in liquids. This "Dutch cocoa", as it came to be called, has a mild flavor, and must be used with baking powder or other acidic ingredients.

Natural unsweetened cocoa powder is more intense in color and flavor; when used in a recipe that calls for baking soda (an alkali), it creates a leavening agent.

Though it's always best to use the type of cocoa powder specified in a recipe, in a pinch (ha ha) you can substitute one kind of cocoa powder for another:

• For 3 Tbsp Dutch-processed cocoa, substitute 3 Tbsp natural cocoa powder plus 1/8 tsp baking soda.
• For 3 Tbsp natural cocoa, substitute 3 Tbsp Dutch-processed cocoa plus 1/8 tsp cream of tartar or 1/8 tsp lemon juice or vinegar.

(At the moment, I happen to have Droste, a Dutch-processed brand, in the pantry. Other popular brands: Valrhona and Lindt. Some natural cocoa powder brands: Ghirardelli, Scharffen Berger, and good old Hershey's.)

We always think of cocoa as a sweetener, but unsweetened cocoa is an ancient food that features in the cuisines of Brazil, Mexico (think molé), and other countries in the cacao-growing bands a few degrees north and south of the Equator.

COCOA-CUMIN-ALLSPICE RUB
We rubbed this on venison tenderloins and cooked them on the grill. Oh, baby! Adapted from Cooks Illustrated. Makes about 1/3 cup.

1    Tbsp unsweetened cocoa
4    tsp ground cumin
2    tsp ground allspice
4    tsp black peppercorns
2    tsp kosher salt

Grind all ingredients in a dedicated spice grinder (don't use your coffee mill) or mortar until no whole peppercorns remain.

[Printer-friendly recipe.]

Comments

[Marcia]

I put a whisper of unsweetened cocoa powder in my chili.
Although I sure as heck won't be making it today!

[Lydia]

What a good idea....chocolate and chili. I'm not much of a baker, so I'm always looking for ways to incorporate cocoa powder into savory dishes.

[kalyn]

Hi there,

You're the winner of the herb book in the little "contest" on my blog. If you'll send me your mailing address I'll put it in the mail to you. (kalynskitchen AT comcast DOT net)

Congratulations. You'll love the book.

[Lydia]

Wow! Thanks, Kalyn. I've been enjoying your blog and encourage Perfect Pantry fans to visit.

[Lydia]

Oops, forgot the most important part: www.kalynskitchen.blogspot.com. A great site for foodies and women who blog. Enjoy!

[Kate]

John "had" to tour the Droste factory a few years ago with a customer, right after visitng the candy show in Koln, Germany. I don't know why I can't get a job like that!

Love that idea of putting cocoa in the chili...!

[Paul]

Assuming some of you know this: hot chocolate with chili, and no suger, is quite something... wonderful to drink in these British winters. I believe it's traditional Mexican/Incan, if I haven't gotten that wrong. Several companies here make versions of it... not quite sure how they mix the chili in (not powder, but oil, I think).

[Lydia]

Paul, you're right about the chocolate-chile connection. When we visited the small villages of Mexico's Oaxaca region some years ago, we stopped at a grindery where the villagers would bring whatever they wanted to grind: grain, corn, cocoa. The chiles were ground right in with the cocoa, so all would be the same consistency. Amazing how the tiniest pinch of chile powder in hot chocolate makes a huge different -- the heat catches you by surprise. Thanks for giving us the idea; it's getting cooler here in New England, which means apple pie and hot chocolate!